With two new amazing tourbillions and new aesthetics for its Malte collection, Vacheron Constantin was, like every year, one of the highlights in Geneva. An understated and elegant brand, that doesn’t need the help of Universal Studio type decor to launch the novelties, the manufacture attracts the aficionados with pure and classic watchmaking wonders.
Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-day Tourbillon
The latest newcomer to the Patrimony Traditionnelle line, the 14-day Tourbillon, is one of the most impressive launches from Geneva. With a new calibre, 2260, the timepiece is the first Vacheron Constantin watch to be approved according to the new Hallmark of Geneva criteria, which are no longer confined to the movement alone, but also take account of the finished watch. For the company, this meant 40% more work for developing the mechanism and finishing the components.
Instated by the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva in 1886, the Poinçon de Genève is a guarantee of origin, quality of craftsmanship, durability and expertise. Now celebrating its 125th anniversary, the Hallmark of Geneva is undergoing a major transformation, particularly in order to take account of the evolution in the techniques and materials used in the watch industry.
In order to provide a full 14-day power reserve, the new Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2260 is equipped with four barrels mounted in coupled pairs. They are all connected and all unwind simultaneously, but naturally four times slower than a single barrel. The four barrel-springs amount to a total length of around 2.20 metres and each enables approximately 13 development rotations, all in a calibre whose diameter is of only 12 ¾ lignes (29.10mm). Other than the practical aspect of this power reserve, these barrels guarantee a longer stability in time.
The architecture of the calibre features, comprising 231 components, two large bridges (instead of the three appearing on the previous Vacheron Constantin tourbillons). The large surfaces thus available serve to highlight the finish of this movement, including the Côtes de Genève.
Having two extra bridges serves to enhance the precision in terms of assembly, but represents an additional difficulty for the watchmaker who has less easy access to the movement. The tourbillon carriage is inspired by the brand’s signature Maltese Cross and provides a showcase for the exceptional level of finishing of each movement part, including a number of interior angles, all naturally hand-bevelled. The rounding off of the tourbillon bar alone takes over 11 hours of manual craftsmanship to achieve an optimal effect. The price tag is 189.000 Euros.
Malte collection
In 1912, eager to make a clean break with the rounded shape of its pocket-watches Vacheron Constantin became one of the first watch manufacturers to adopt tonneau or barrel-shaped cases. Right from its appearance, it became an emblematic shape that would be associated over the century with the most prestigious horological complications, interpreted in particular through the Malte collection, first introduced in 2000.
This year the manufacture decided to celebrate the anniversary with a new, redesigned version and to enrich the Malte collection with four new models – the new Malte Tourbillon, Malte small seconds and Malte small model and of course an anniversary watch issued in a 100-piece limited series.
The Vacheron Constantin engineers and movement design engineers have developed a new tonneau-shaped movement moulding the shape of the case. Moreover, the Malte Tourbillon, Malte small seconds and Malte 100th Anniversary Edition are all officially approved as meeting the new criteria of the Hallmark of Geneva.
The Malte Tourbillon timepiece – the largest in the collection – has a curving 18K pink gold case measuring 38 x 48.2 mm and is fitted with a brown Mississippiensis alligator leather strap complete with Maltese cross-shaped rose gold folding clasp. This model is equipped with mechanical hand-wound Calibre 2795, comprising 246 parts, beating at a frequency of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour) and endowed with an almost two-day power reserve. The price is 124.200 Euros.
The Malte small seconds comes in an 18K pink gold case measuring 36.7 x 47.6 mm. The hour-markers and the 12 and 6 o’clock Roman numerals, also in pink gold, have been redesigned so as to smoothly follow the new curve that has been given to the tonneau-shaped case. The hour and minute hands, as well as the small seconds at 6 o’clock, are all driven by the Vacheron Constantin 4400 AS movement. The new Malte small seconds model is fitted with a strap in brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, complete with a Malte cross-shaped pink gold buckle. And the price tag is 16.600 Euros.
With the Malte small model, Vacheron Constantin wished to pay tribute to all those with a preference for diminutively sized watches – a 28.3 x 38.7 mm pink gold case housing a quartz movement, Calibre 1202. Hour-markers along with Roman numerals for the 6 and 12 o’clock indications accentuate the diamond setting around the bezel, creating a striking contrast between horological classicism and a jewellery sparkle. The price is 14.000 Euros.
And last, but not least, the 100th Anniversary Edition model, a hand-wound watch issued in a 100-piece limited series and introduced in a 36.7 x 47.6 mm case made of 950 platinum. This Malte 100th Anniversary model is equipped with Vacheron Constantin hand-wound Calibre 4400, driving the hour and minute hands. This movement is endowed with a 65-hour power reserve thanks to its large barrel. Beating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), it comprises 106 parts and measures a respectable 28.60 mm. And the price is 34.600 Euros.
